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Chaud Froid | Getting Clearer

Just as was the case with aspic, chefs utilized chaud froid sauces in a number of different manners. In most cases, it was to simply coat food that was being served cold. In other cases, the chaud froid sauces were used to create a shell inside a mold into which other cold foods like purees, salads or cold stews were formed and eventually un-molded onto a plate. Finally, chaud froid sauces were used as a liner. In this function, the sauces would have to be warmer than usual. The sauces were poured to cover the serving surface of a platter and allowed to firm. Once firm, other food items would be arranged on the surface of this chaud froid liner. Typically, this technique was employed when the platter being used was comprised of soft metals, like gold and silver. The chaud froid liner would eliminate the possibility of any physical interaction between the metal and the arranged food: especially if the food was acidic or salty.

The different chaud froid uses required different textures. Sauces used as a glaze required a lighter consistency than sauces that were used to line timbales or molds. Both consistencies had to be tight enough to serve their function as well as melt or provide a pleasant mouth-feel when the customer ate it. The tightest consistency was reserved for the liner. Though the chaud froid sauce was completely edible, it was considered by culinarians to be inedible simply because of its rock-solid consistency. The rock-solid consistency wasn't a mistake. When sitting out on a buffet, the consistency of the liner had to be firm enough so that food arranged on top of it would not start to swim in the chaud froid.

As was mentioned earlier, demi-glace and other rich dark sauces eventually fell out of favor. Cold red meat with a cold rich brown sauce just wasn't a hit with the taste buds. The color of the finished product wasn't one that attracted many rave reviews either. Picture this: a demi-glace glazed piece of cold tenderloin served on a demi-glace lined plate. How about twenty-five demi-glace glazed pieces of meat served on a platter lined with a demi-glace. Definitely a presentation challenge for even the best Garde Manger chefs. Very few of these presentations were being employed in the 1930s. By the end of the 1940s they were considered extinct.

With dark chaud froid sauces waning in popularity during the late 1920s and 1930s, the brighter, more versatile Béchamel chaud froid took center stage. Its consistency still had to be adjusted for the various uses, but its ability to work with additional spices to create beautiful natural colors made it a hit. The best combination was Béchamel with a saffron infusion. The flavor and color were, and still are, great. Other items like paprika, curry, etc. were used, but saffron stole the show. Chefs found that portions of saffron-coated poached salmon were flavorful and beautiful. When placed on a white liner (firm Béchamel) that was decorated with fresh herbs, they had a presentation that was second to none. Many chefs decided to decorate the individual chaud froid glazed portions of food. With this technique a decorated portion or chicken breast or salmon simply laid on a piece or lettuce was tremendously attractive. The white chaud froid sauces became so popular during the 1940s and 1950s that the term chaud froid became synonymous with Béchamel and its derivatives, as if the dark sauces had never existed.

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